The Bespoke Process
The bespoke tailoring process at Y&O combines traditional British practices with a contemporary approach. We work from scratch with each individual client, and numerous hours of effort go into crafting each suit that is original and unique to the client. Our team of expert cutters, tailors, finishers and pressers hand-cut and tailor every piece of clothing to ensure that the highest standards are maintained at every stage. The bespoke process begins with the client discussing his requirements such as styles and cuts with our client managers and continues as follows:
Measurements and Pattern Cutting
Each client has his measurements taken to create a unique pattern that serves as a blueprint throughout the tailoring process. The cutter carefully takes measurements and also takes into account all the characteristics of the client’s physique such as posture, shoulder width and variations in the lengths of the arms. These measurements are used to create a paper pattern that will serve as the unique template for the final piece.
Fabric Selection and Cutting
The client is then taken through an extensive range of cloth swatches. He selects one with help of the stylist based on the envisioned style and characteristics such as a single or two-button single breasted coat or a four or six-button double breasted coat. The paper pattern is then drafted and chalked out on the cloth to be cut by hand to create all the individual panels for the garment.
Once the cloth has been cut to create the foundation of the suit, additional materials such as wool canvasses, linen, linings and buttons are sorted by hand and assembled as per the client’s requirements. After a thorough quality check, the materials are carefully added to the suit to give it a unique touch.
Bringing the Pieces Together
After the trimming process, the garment is passed on to our tailoring team. The suit is then canvassed and readied for the first fitting.
During the first fitting, the cutter takes note of any alterations required to suit the client’s posture and comfort. A new pattern is cut, taking into consideration any alterations that need to be made. The tailor will then make the required alterations and prepare the suit for the next fitting.
At Y&O, every fitting is treated like the first in order to ensure as few imperfections as possible in terms of fitting and comfort. During the second fitting, the cutter will carefully examine the suit to check whether the previous alterations and amendments have been carried out to the dot, and take note of any additional adjustments that may be required.
Once again the tailor carefully incorporates the new alterations and adds finishing touches such as making button holes, sewing in the collar and sleeves, stitching the edges and felling. Once this process is complete, the client is invited to see the finished suit for the first time.
Once all the finishing touches are added, the suit is pressed and ready for the final fitting. This is the moment when all the painstaking effort and attention to detail pay off. The client tries on the finished suit, which is carefully inspected and approved by the cutter.
There is nothing that makes us happier and prouder than watching a client who is completely satisfied and excited about his new garment. It is this final moment that drives us on through the numerous hours of craftsmanship required to meticulously execute the bespoke process.